有花生醬玩什麼都刺激

A Guide to

Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage

in Taiwan  

大甲媽祖遶境準備指南（中英對照）
 

On the way of Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage of 2019, we met a girl from Israel who told us how hard it is to find English information about how to prepare for this event.  So here I am writing this article to share with you what I found might be helpful to get ready for the journey.  

在2019年遶境的路上遇到一名以色列女孩。她說爬了半天遶境活動的英文資訊，裡面都沒人說到底該準備一些什麼東西。所以我決定寫這篇文章，把所有根據自身經驗派上用場的道具和撇步都列出來。歡迎引用，請註明出處。

▲大甲媽祖遶境隊伍準備起駕
The parade of Mazu waiting to set off

5 Things to know about Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage

關於大甲媽祖遶境的5件事
 

1. 　🌜 
   Take place every year in March of lunar calendar, which would be mostly around April of solar calendar (yep, the one that you always know as a calendar).  The precise date and time to start will be decided by January 15th of lunar calendar.
    
2. 　🎎
   It is a tradition in Taiwan for deities to patrol an area on a palanquin, giving blessings and exorcising the evils.  Anyone can follow as a pilgrim in order to pray for blessings, repay the kindness or avoid disasters, while helping and taking care of each others on the way.
    
3. 　⚓️ 
   The pilgrimage starting from Dà-jiǎ, a small sea side town in the north of Tai-zhong city, is now considered to be the biggest religious festival in Taiwan, with hundreds of thousands of people clustering around the goddess of seafarers, Mā-zǔ.  For more history & customs please refer to Taiwan Religious Scene web page.
    
4. 　⛺️
   It is a journey of 9 days and 8 nights of hiking, visiting more than 100 shrines and temples, which have been lasting longer and longer due to the expectation of many more local shrines.
    
5. 　👟
   The complete route is around 343 km, starting from Zhèn-lán Temple in Dà-jiǎ in Tai-zhong city, through Zhāng-huà city, Shī-luó town, finally arrive to Fong-tien Temple in Shīn-gǎng, and head back all the way to Dà-jiǎ.

1. 每年農曆三月媽祖誕辰前後舉行。確切的日期會在元宵節當晚「卜桮」決定。
2. 遶境是神明定期巡視民間，以安定人心、驅逐邪煞的例行任務。隨香的信眾多為還願、祈福或消災而來，並在途中不分貧富老幼，互相扶持。關於遶境可以參考台灣民俗文化工作室。
3. 目前全台遶境習俗中，大甲鎮瀾宮為規模最大，每年有數十萬香燈腳隨媽祖鑾轎沿途探訪上百座廟宇，更詳細的陣頭隊伍與慶典習俗，可參考台灣宗教百景。
4. 活動長達9天8夜。其實在1959年以前是7天6夜，但在地方宮廟的期盼下請示媽祖後加碼愈來愈長，要駐駕的宮廟也愈來愈多。
5. 全程343公里，從台中大甲鎮瀾宮，經彰化市、西螺，抵達嘉義新港奉天宮，接著再折返回駕大甲。

▲在公路上行進的香燈腳與大甲鎮瀾宮隊伍
A pilgrim walking along with the parade from Zhèn-lán Temple in Dà-jiǎ

Before you start off 出發前準備

Rules & Taboos 注意事項

Basically all these mean to present yourself “cleanly” in front of the deities as a respect.

1. Practice “vegetarian fast” 3 days before you start up.
2. Close family of the deceased within 49 days and one who just gave birth of a baby within 30 days should not attend to any shrine or events including this Pilgrimage.
3. Make sure to wear clean clothes, and new clothes to zhù-shòu celebration on the 4th day. 
4. During the Pilgrimage, no alcohol, no gambling, and sadly, no sex or flirting. 
5. Mind your manners.  No swear or foul language.  

• The category of being vegetarian in Taiwan is slightly different from the west.  For example, eating fish absolutely doesn’t count as vegetarian.  The local folklore religion had been influenced by Buddhism, therefore, during the fast, most of people will perform a strict religious type of “vegetarian”, which is eating not only no meat, but also no garlics and alliums (spices that considered to arouse desire for meat), while there’s no strict prohibition of eggs and dairy.
   

這些規則背後的涵義大都是為了讓隨香者潔淨自身，以表示對眾神明的尊重。

1. 出發前三天開始吃素。
2. 守孝中的喪家和正在做月子的女性不可參加。
3. 第一次參加進香，在祝壽大典上全身衣物必須是新的。參加過的人只要衣著乾淨即可。
4. 隨香期間禁酒、禁賭、禁色。
5. 不能亂說話，保持禮儀常說「請、謝謝、對不起」。

When to start & Where to go  何時開走？走去哪裡？

After the divination ceremony in the first full moon’s night of the year, January 15th of lunar calendar (aka. Spring Lantern Festival), you can find the schedule on the official website for Dà-jiǎ Ma-zu Pilgrimage.  (Update: For 2020, the journey will start on March 20 and until March 28 of solar calender. )

However, since all informations are in Chinese anyway, I will recommend you to download the official GPS App or check 👑this webpage that shows Ma-zu’s track and location of each days for better understanding.
 

▲大甲媽祖遶境GPS即時定位App
The GPS app that shows the instant location of Mazu's palanquin, 
which is easy to understand even though still in Chinese.
 

Traditionally, followers walk along with her, but becasue the bearers carrying Mā-zǔ’s palanquin will take turns walking speedily, nowadays pathetic valetudinarians living in 21st century, like me, will mostly start up 3-6 hours earlier than her departure, otherwise it’s not as easy to catch up with her.

Usually she departs late in the night from Zhèn-lán Temple(鎮瀾宮) on the first day, so earlier in the afternoon, you may take a train to Dà-jiǎ(大甲) train station and walk to the temple in 5 minutes.  

在農曆1月15日元宵節晚上，鎮瀾宮就會「卜桮」確定起駕和回駕時間，接著把行程公佈在大甲媽祖遶境活動官網。

【更新：2020年大甲媽祖繞境行程表如下】

不過我會推薦直接下載大甲媽祖遶境GPS即時定位App（Google Play / App Store），隨時查看媽祖路徑和駐駕、起駕時間。當然如果你跟我一樣到現在還在使用賈伯斯生前的遺作，iOS不符合系統需求，歡迎開啟👑網頁版媽祖遶境軌跡。

雖然傳統上香燈腳應該要跟在媽祖鑾轎的後面，但轎班身強體健還能輪班上場，自然是健步如飛，我們這些體弱多病的現代人恐怕很快就看不到媽祖的車尾燈了。因此絕大多數人都會比媽祖提早3-6小時出發。

通常起駕都在第一天深夜，所以大概當天下午就可以搭車到大甲火車站，走路5分鐘就到鎮瀾宮了。

▲ 👑網頁版媽祖遶境軌跡 
webpage that shows Ma-zu’s track and location of each days

What to bring 遶境要帶什麼？

To prepare for this long trip, you must first think about how you’re going to accomplish it:   

準備行李前，先想好，你打算如何完成9天8夜343公里的遶境？

by hiking 徒步行進

Originally, everyone walks.

Yet, the most traditional way may be simply walking, with nothing.  Amazingly, you may still find several cool elders traveling just like this, every year, since decades ago.

However, I prefer to travel with sufficient material assistance, including:

自古以來，遶境就是用走的。

最原始的方法甚至可以兩手空空上路，把自己交給媽祖，隨遇而安，累了就席地而臥。最神奇的就是你還真有可能遇到一些威猛的長輩，已經這樣走了十幾年。

但我個人還是傾向於透過一些物質輔助來讓自己好過一點，包括：

Packing List  攜帶物品清單

Anything to add or remove is up to you, but be sure to try put them all on your shoulder to see if you can bear the weight for long time hiking.

Moreover, many people uses wagon instead of carrying everything on their back, to make room for more needments while reducing the aches from trudging over a long distance. 

可以依個人需求增減，但記得出發前一定要在家試揹一下，評估自己能不能長時間負荷這個重量行走，盡量減少不必要的東西。

此外，不少人選擇不把行李揹在身上，而是使用手推車、菜籃車，可以負荷更多必須品，同時把長途跋涉造成的肩頸和腰背的酸痛減到最低。

▲You can even find some wagons specially designed for the Pilgrimage with huge capacity, light weight, ergonomic handle height and 360º free and easy turning from online shops.
市面上還有販售超大容量輕巧四輪360度自由轉彎人體工學免彎腰遶境專用菜籃車。

by bicycle or even by scooter 騎腳踏車或機車

Lately more and more decide to catch up with Mā-zǔ by other means such as bicycle or scooter.  Some even drive a car there, with a message on their windows like “feel free to get on when you need some rest”, to offer seats for strangers in need.

If you’d like to adopt measures other than hiking, please also consider the possible limitations when parking or entering a crowded downtown area.

近年來有不少信眾雖然體力上難以完全9天徒步之旅，但還是選擇用其他方式追隨媽祖。最常見的是腳踏車，其次是機車。當然也有人開車相隨，甚至在車窗上寫著「累了請上車」，志願提供車位讓徒步香客休息。

若你打算採取徒步以外的方式，也請務必考量這些交通工具可能帶來的限制，例如停車、進入市區人擠人時。

The Pilgrimage Flag 進香旗

It is a flag with embroidery of a dragon, as a sign of Mā-zǔ’s pilgrims who will be protected by her troops.  You can buy the flag at the starting point, Zhèn-lán Temple(鎮瀾宮) with 300 TWD.  Remember to greet with Mā-zǔ back in the middle of the shrine, telling her that you’re going for the Pilgrimage, and write down your name and address on the flag.  

There are couple of things to do before you go and when you visit other temples on the way of the Pilgrimage:

1. Go inside the temple, greet with the deities (pray for your wishes).
2. Seal your flag with the big square stamp of the temple
3. Get a yellow good luck charm paper to tide above the flag.
4. Take the flag to hover above the huge incense burner by the middle door for 3 circles clockwise, and the one back in the middle of the shrine for 3 circles again.

If you are not sure what you’re doing, just watch or ask others holding the flags.

You might want to go to Zhèn-lán Temple earlier to avoid the crowds of millions.  On the last day returning to Zhèn-lán Temple, greet again with Mā-zǔ to let her know that you’re back. After that you’re welcome to take the flag home with you, but make sure do not put it in the bedroom or restroom, as a respect for her troops.

進香旗的目的，不但表示你隨香信眾的身份，也是用來祈求神明護佑的信物。

出發前建議最好提早到鎮瀾宮請旗，一面300元左右。請旗時必須向媽祖稟告，寫上名字、住址，蓋大印，綁上平安符，再將進香旗過天公爐和聖母爐，順時鐘方向繞3圈，請天兵天將隨行護佑，接著才能出發，稱為「起馬」。每到一間廟，也將持你手上這支進香旗參拜。直到最後一天回到大甲鎮瀾宮，再到媽祖面前參拜稟告，讓天兵天將回朝報到，稱為「落馬」。關於進香旗該注意的禮俗，推薦閱讀保庇now的習俗小百科。

▲ The middle door of a shrine is for the deities.  So when entering a shrine, use doors on the left hand side, and leave by the doors on the right hand side.

The left is called “dragon’s side”, and the right is called “tiger’s side”.  The dragon’s job is to refresh your soul so that you can have better connections with the deities, and the tiger is to bless you from all evils so the misfortune will fall behind you when you walk out from the door.

Knowing the weather 天氣

The average temperature would be 25ºC~30ºC in the day time, and15ºC~20ºC in the night time.

Although this middle-west part has been the most sunny and least humid area in Taiwan, it is still a rainy season of spring.  

媽祖遶境期間沿線的平均溫度是，白天25ºC~30ºC，晚上16ºC~20ºC。

雖然中彰雲一帶算是比較乾燥晴朗的，但別忘了這時還是多雨的春天。有一句俗諺說「媽祖婆雨，大道公風」，便是以神話寓言來描述媽祖和保生大帝之間的愛恨情仇如何導致每年媽祖出巡和保生大帝建醮時一定要來個大風大雨的。

Food 食

Even though this sounds kind of superficial, one of the most exiting feature is all the free foods on the way.

Everything is provided voluntarily either by local people, companies or shrines.  And it’s not only about us not to worry over supplements on the way.  

Just for the record, Taiwan is a popular spot for delicious Asian cuisine.  In fact, FOOD is the main reason that this developing island is attracting millions of visitors from Japan and Hong Kong every year.   As one of the pilgrim, you’ll be under attack of tons and tons of traditional Taiwanese cuisine, drinks and snacks, such as fried noodle, vermicelli, sticky rice, wheel pies, flaky pancake, shaved ice and bubble milk tea.

These towns on the Pilgrimage route also happen to be famous for fruits.  Watermelons, muskmelons, grapes, pineapples, guavas, wax apples, bananas, cherry tomatoes…everything offered for Mā-zǔ’s pilgrims by the locals are all of the best quality.

Well, I shouldn’t make it the main purpose for you to go for a pilgrimage, but after an 8 hour walk under the scorching sun, the hospitality does mean a lot to refresh and keep us going.

參加媽祖遶境最令人興奮的，就是沿途都有吃不完的美食（大誤）。

炒麵、米粉、米糕、素粽、車輪餅、無蔥抓餅，甚至剉冰和珍珠奶茶都是當地居民和商家免費提供香客。幾年下來甚至發展出口耳相傳佳評如潮的攤位，被許多老香客視為年年必吃！

遶境沿線這幾個鄉鎮更以富饒的水果產區聞名，西瓜、哈密瓜、葡萄、鳳梨、芭樂、蓮霧、香蕉、小蕃茄，所有在地人端出來的水果都是超越市面的頂級貨。

雖然不應該搞得大家好像都是為了吃而來，但試想在烈日下苦行8小時後，路邊熱情的人們遞上來的一小片美味，都能成為我們繼續走下去的動力。

▲One feature of this island is all kinds of delicious fruits from the temperate to tropical zone.
The pilgrimage give you a chance to try them all, including this sweet juicy wax apple.

Vegetarian and Vegan-friendly 素食者友善

The free foods prepared would be also “Buddhism vegetarian” for the first 3 days of the Pilgrimage until zhùshòu celebration in Shīn-gǎng on the 4th day.  After that, you can find foods for both carnivore and vegetarian on the streets.

Although the dairy products are not definitely prohibited for Buddhism vegetarian, they are not really common to use in Taiwanese cuisine.  Instead, we uses a variety of soy products such as tofu, fried tofu, dried tofu, fermented tofu, bean curd sheet and soy milk.  Dishes that contains eggs would be also very obviously eggs and thus avoidable.  So if you’re vegan, Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage is probably going to be the best journey for you in the world to get yourself fed.

遶境前三天，所有的結緣品都是齋素，路上看到的食物都不含肉和五辛，直到第四天的祝壽大典結束才可以開葷。接下來回程遇到的結緣品就可能素的和葷的都有。這表示，對於吃素的人來說，參加大甲媽祖遶境大概會是這輩子最不需要為吃的擔心的一場旅行。

▲You'll be surprised how creative a vegan menu can be in a temple.

Water 飲用水

Tap-water is not drinkable in Taiwan (we’re working on it though), so you will find many booths providing bottled water.  But for those who aren’t really a fan of bottled water:  almost every temples and bigger shrines (those with five doors or more in the front) would have a water dispenser at the side or hallway.  That is why temples are also my best supply spots when cycling around Taiwan, as well as police stations and train stations.

Nevertheless, many locals prepared by their doors a huge tank of tea or “plumade" for pilgrims, which is considered to be a useful cure to prevent heat stroke.

路上會遇到非常多熱心民眾發放瓶裝礦泉水，但如果你和我一樣希望減少不必要的垃圾，可以自備水壺。反正幾乎所有大廟的側廊都會設置飲水機。而且台灣其實到處都是飲水機，所以個人每次環島補水的地方就是廟宇、警察局、火車站。

建議另外帶個碗或杯子，因為路邊還有很多奉茶、奉甜湯、奉酸梅湯的攤位，很適合用來補充電解質，預防中暑和抽筋。

▲The sour tea made of plum is definitely refreshing after hiking in the sun.

Toilet 廁所

Almost all the temples or bigger shrines has toilets, and so as some 7-11, family marts, gas station, police station or train station.

Companies and factories having booths built up for pilgrims to rest usually offer their toilet for use.  On the most crowded sites, you can also find many portable restrooms.

But most of public toilet provides no toilet paper.

And please note that Taiwan is only recently starting to upgrade the sewage system for flushing down tissues (yeah, we’re working on this, too), so if you see no signs written, instead of flushing tissues into the toilet, put them into the trash bin by the toilet.

The pilgrimage flag should not be brought into toilets with you.  You may ask other pilgrims to keep an eye on it for you.

大一點的宮廟都會附設廁所，還有公路上的便利商店、加油站、警察局、火車站。

有些公司或工廠會在門口設置休息區，他們通常也開放洗手間給香客方便。主辦方在一些人擠人的駐駕點也會設置流動廁所。

記得攜帶衛生紙，並且注意有些老舊管線還不能把衛生紙丟馬桶，留給下一個人乾淨的如廁空間。

Sleeping 睡覺

Although you may book hostels/hotels/B&Bs along the way for each day, but what I find absolutely precious in the Pilgrimage is a chance to travel like a monk in ancient times.

1. First of all, all shrines and temples on the route open up their floors during the Pilgrimage for everyone who needs a rest.  Yes! you can simply just walk in and lie down in any spot not blocking the way.
2. Furthermore, bigger temples tend to have its own “pilgrim’s building”(香客大樓).  Some are free for staying or taking donation of voluntarism, and some may charge 100~500 TWD depending on the facilities.
3. If you are at the main temple of a village, the community center may be just nearby, and offer their indoor space as well.
4. The elementary schools close by may also open up their playing-fields for camping.
5. When you’re exhausted late in the night, you can even lie down on a paved sidewalk under buildings, but if it’s by someone’s door, better to ask for permission.

In short, you can sleep basically anywhere without booking anything in advance as long as you’re cool with it.  Actually, when I just wander around temples, many strangers come to tell me where there’s still space for resting.  Sharing of information and everything is just natural among all pilgrims regardless of status or relation.

wherever you find in the end, there’s only one thing to be worried: the mosquitos.  If you’re not traveling with a mosquito net or inner tent, it’s better to cover yourself with a sleeping bag or clothes.

According to the detail schedule published by the organizer, the resting time for Mā-zǔ’s palanquin is only 1-3 hours per day, but since you can move on earlier and arrive earlier, it’s easy to manage for a good sleep.

▲凌晨，在廟堂內外睡成一團的香燈腳們
Pilgrims just lie down in the corners around the temple.

雖然可以預先把沿途住宿都訂好，但個人認為遶境中最有趣難得的機會，就是和一大堆人一起體驗武俠小說般以天為蓋地為廬的行腳方式。

1. 繞境期間沿途的宮廟都會開放信眾睡在廟裡廟外各處地板上。別懷疑，只要不擋路的角落都能塞進一個人。我還曾經拜拜到一半被神壇下面露出的一雙赤腳嚇到。
2. 有些宮廟會貼心地提供草蓆，有些還有自己的香客大樓，可能是免費或隨喜，也可能視設備等級酌收100~500元；
3. 更有些村鎮的社區中心就近在廟前，開放大家進去打地舖。
4. 當晚駐廟的廟宇附近的小學也有可能開放讓香客進去搭帳篷。
5. 如果是深夜，更多人會直接在騎樓倒地就睡。不過如果是別人家的大門出入口，最好還是先打聲招呼取得同意。

簡而言之，就是哪都能睡的意思。所以只要能放開心態去挑戰，完全不訂旅社民宿也無所謂。其實我光在廟附近閒晃，就會突然出現高人指點說哪裡哪裡還有位子可以睡。無論資訊還是物資，與有緣的陌生人互通有無，都是遶境途中的日常。

最後，無論你在哪裡找到一塊舒適乾爽的棲身地，防蚊都是一大重點。如果沒有帶蚊帳、內帳，最好能用睡袋包住自己、衣物蓋住頭臉。畢竟非行進狀態下，一塊肉靜靜攤在那裡吸引蚊子，防蚊液的效果實在很有限。

補充一下，我出發前一直以為要按照媽祖的時間表走，那一天豈不是就只能睡1~3小時？！但事實上只要提早出發、提早到達就有充足的時間睡飽再上。

Showers 洗澡

Here are some places to look for shower rooms:

1. Portable shower rooms set up by the organizer

2. In the pilgrim’s buildings / community centers nearby big temples

3. Some B&B / hostels might offer showers for 100~200 TWD

4. Swimming pool.  Although it takes extra walks from the route, but it’s pretty relaxing and costs only 100~200 TWD (if you bring a bathing suit with you for SPA).

以下是可以找到洗澡間的地方：

1. 行動沐浴車，大甲媽祖遶境活動主辦單位設立在各點

2. 宮廟附設香客大樓或社區中心裡的沐浴間

3. 有些民宿或旅舍提供洗澡一次100或200

4. 游泳池。雖然需要一點體力偏離進香路線多繞點路，但如果有帶泳衣，順便游個泳舒緩肌肉緊繃也不錯

Take a break 休息

When you're exhausted, you can

1. sit down at supplement spots or, just anywhere.

2. get on a service truck run by volunteers to take anyone in need to the next temple or shrine.

Sure It’s nice to challenge but there’s no need to force yourself when you don’t feel right.

Besides, one of the advantages not booking any place to stay is that you can rest anywhere anytime you want.  No rush.

當你累到腳都不聽使喚時，可以：

1. 找個補給點坐下來乘涼、休息。
2. 搭免費的香車服務車前往下一個參拜點，在車上休息恢復體力再繼續走。

挑戰自我是一件好事，但請隨時注意自身體能狀況，適時休息不要勉強啊！

況且沒有預訂任何住宿的一大好處，就是可以隨時隨地停下來睡一覺。

Safety 安全

Medication 醫療急救

During the Pilgrimage, you can find the medical crew following the parade, as well as several first-aid booths near some temples sponsored by local hospitals.  Feel free to ask them when you need help.  They even offer to remove and bandage your blisters.

遶境期間，有醫療團隊會跟在隊伍中，幾個主要大廟附近也可以找到地方醫院支援的急救攤位。受傷或身體不適都可以尋求他們的協助，包括清除水泡和包紮。
 

Pickpockets 扒手

Mind your personal belongings.

就是請保管好自身財物。

Traffic 車輛

The route includes highways without sidewalks, which means there would be scooters running by just 10 inches away from you.  Therefore, always watch out for your back whenever you’re stoping or turning, and especially remember to put a taillight on your backpack and make sure it’s turned on when walking in the night.

遶境路線會經過車流量大又沒有人行道的省道、縣道，請隨時耳聽八方，轉彎時注意後方來車。尤其要記得在身後掛個警示燈，夜間行進時務必打開。

▲The pilgrimage route takes mostly tarred road, sometimes even highway.

Firecrackers 鞭炮

There’s a tradition to put firecrackers on the side of the road and light them up right before Mā-zǔ’s palanquin coming.  It is believed that the longer people can stopped the palanquin in front of their door, the more blessings they can earn from Mā-zǔ.  That’s why the firecrackers can be more than 10 meters long or in many fancy shooting forms.  So be aware if you’re walking right in front of Mā-zǔ’s palanquin and dodge quickly when someone’s yelling “beh pàng phàu-á” (firecrackers are lighten up).

沿路居民會在地上設置好鞭炮，在媽祖鑾轎通過前點燃，讓媽祖在門前停久一點、多一點保庇。所以街邊處處是大排長龍的、各式各樣的鞭炮、烽炮、煙火炸滿天。進城時請留意自己是否走在媽祖鑾轎前面，一聽到「欲放炮也」（beh pàng phàu-á），速速閃避。

▲ 路邊的盒式沖天炮
The canon style firecrackers by the roads.

Why snatching at the palanquin? 搶轎是在幹嘛？

One more thing happening every year is literally “fighting” for the palanquin.

It started as a good will, when the original carriers of the palanquin arrive in one place and let the local carriers take over to go around the town for all villagers to see and worship.  Yet, as more and more villages around Zhāng-huà city craving for Mā-zǔ’s blessing, and most of the carrier teams are made up of local gangsters, it gradually turn into violent group scuffle implying a proof of power.

But good news is that it usually happens only when Mā-zǔ’s palanquin entering Zhāng-huà city, especially between Zhāng-huà railway underpass and Yǒng-lè night market, so it’s easy to avoid it by walking a couple of hours earlier away from the palanquin when passing Zhāng-huà city.

年年有遶境，年年遇搶轎，還年年打到上新聞。

「搶轎」成為年經文其來有自，最初起源於1970年代彰化南瑤宮的媽祖遶境，目的是把媽祖搶進自己的庄頭，為地方增添靈氣。

後來這個風氣蔓延到逐年興盛的大甲鎮瀾宮媽祖遶境。起初基於彰化信眾熱情接駕，鎮瀾宮的神轎班也盡量放手讓信眾「協扛」，但愈搶愈誇張，加上各庄各廟背後的黑道勢力影響，大大小小的角頭蠢蠢欲動，希望透過搶下媽祖鑾轎一戰成名。從此，原意為讓家鄉沾福氣的搶轎行動，演變成地方勢力較勁的武力大亂鬥，主辦方只好請警方派員護駕。《搶轎古今談》可參考民俗亂彈的文章。

了解這個演變的過程，我們就可以得知「搶轎」導致鬥毆通常發生在彰化市區，尤其民生地下道至永樂商圈前。因此媒體總是擠在這一段等待捕捉衝突鏡頭，讓新聞畫面看起來特別激烈，實際上當然不是9天8夜都有人在搶轎。擔心身陷亂鬥現場怕被波及，只需要在彰化市區這段避免在媽祖轎附近停留就好。
 

▲ 彰化市區以外的地方都可以和平地交由地主廟轎班協扛
It's mostly peaceful outside of Zhāng-huà city

Prostrate under the palanquin 軁轎跤

Whenever Mā-zǔ’s palanquin arrive in a town, you’ll see people waiting on the street in a column of twos.  If you’d like to, you may join them to prostrate, letting Mā-zǔ’s palanquin going above you.  The origin of this custom is said to devote oneself as Ma-zu's foot bench in order to repay her kindness making your prayers come true, while now it is believed to bless you and keep you safe.

But make sure you DO NOT prostrate under the palanquin when you are…

• pregnant (It is said that the spirit of an embryo might be harmed by the Eight Trigrams under the palanquin, but in reality, pushing and jostling in the crowds are definitely dangerous anyway)
• wearing hat, mask or backpack (as a respect and for safety concerns)
• taking the pilgrimage flag or good luck charms with you (not bringing any deities to prostrate under another deity as a respect to those sent to protect you)
• trying to get up or touch the palanquin (unless you want to get your cervical vertebra cracked and killed on the spot)

雖然大多數時間比媽祖提早出發，但如果時間充裕，不妨在駐駕點接駕，畢竟此行是跟隨媽祖而來，不拜見她老人家說不過去。

接駕時會看到許多當地民眾排成二路縱隊，準備跪伏在地，等著「軁轎跤」（nǹg kiō-kha）。

據說，「軁轎跤」原始的意涵，在於有求於媽祖而靈應時，作為還願，甘願以自己的身體當做媽祖轎前的「踏腳椅」。如今則是延伸用來以謙卑的姿態祈求神明保祐、達成信徒心願。所以就算沒有要還願，還是可以加入排隊行列，但要注意軁轎跤的人不可以：

• 懷孕（宗教上的說法是認為胎兒嬰靈會被轎底的八卦沖殺到，但其實軁轎跤過程中推擠碰撞、被踢、被踩，根本不用碰到轎底就已經被傷到了）
• 戴帽子、口罩、背包（為了尊敬神明和安全考量）
• 攜帶進香旗或平安符（要軁自己軁，不可以帶著神明去軁別的神明的轎跤，對賜香火的神明不敬）
• 突然抬頭起身或摸轎子（除非你想要頭破血流頸椎斷裂當場死亡）

▲Prostrating under the palanquin would be the most popular and crowded scene during the pilgrimage.

These are the genuine advices and informations and I hope they can be of some help.  Wish you good luck and have a good time exploring this amazing journey.

If you have any question or find any part confusing, leaving a comment below will be appreciated.

以上就是我衷心的建議，希望對你的行前準備有些幫助，也祝福大家踏上這趟奇幻旅程，收獲滿滿。

如有任何疑惑或需要補足的地方，還請不吝留言指教。

p.s.  Useful words 實用中文

These are words that may be helpful when you try to ask people or copy & paste to search on google maps.

The scheduled stops
click on the temple's name to view on google map

A Guide to

Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage

in Taiwan  
 

On the way of Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage of 2019, we met a girl from Israel who told us how hard it is to find English information about how to prepare for this event.  So here I am writing this article to share with you what I found might be helpful to get ready for the journey.  

▲The parade of Mazu waiting to set off

5 Things to know about Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage
 

1. 　🌜 
   Take place every year in March of lunar calendar, which would be mostly around April of solar calendar (yep, the one that you always know as a calendar).  The precise date and time to start will be decided by January 15th of lunar calendar.
    
2. 　🎎
   It is a tradition in Taiwan for deities to patrol an area on a palanquin, giving blessings and exorcising the evils.  Anyone can follow as a pilgrim in order to pray for blessings, repay the kindness or avoid disasters, while helping and taking care of each others on the way.
    
3. 　⚓️ 
   The pilgrimage starting from Dà-jiǎ, a small sea side town in the north of Tai-zhong city, is now considered to be the biggest religious festival in Taiwan, with hundreds of thousands of people clustering around the goddess of seafarers, Mā-zǔ.  For more history & customs please refer to Taiwan Religious Scene web page.
    
4. 　⛺️
   It is a journey of 9 days and 8 nights of hiking, visiting more than 100 shrines and temples, which have been lasting longer and longer due to the expectation of many more local shrines.
    
5. 　👟
   The complete route is around 343 km, starting from Zhèn-lán Temple in Dà-jiǎ in Tai-zhong city, through Zhāng-huà city, Shī-luó town, finally arrive to Fong-tien Temple in Shīn-gǎng, and head back all the way to Dà-jiǎ.

▲A pilgrim walking along with the parade from Zhèn-lán Temple in Dà-jiǎ

Before you start off

Rules & Taboos

Basically all these mean to present yourself “cleanly” in front of the deities as a respect.

1. Practice “vegetarian fast” 3 days before you start up.
2. Close family of the deceased within 49 days and one who just gave birth of a baby within 30 days should not attend to any shrine or events including this Pilgrimage.
3. Make sure to wear clean clothes, and new clothes to zhù-shòu celebration on the 4th day. 
4. During the Pilgrimage, no alcohol, no gambling, and sadly, no sex or flirting. 
5. Mind your manners.  No swear or foul language.  

• The category of being vegetarian in Taiwan is slightly different from the west.  For example, eating fish absolutely doesn’t count as vegetarian.  The local folklore religion had been influenced by Buddhism, therefore, during the fast, most of people will perform a strict religious type of “vegetarian”, which is eating not only no meat, but also no garlics and alliums (spices that considered to arouse desire for meat), while there’s no strict prohibition of eggs and dairy.
   

When to start & Where to go 

After the divination ceremony in the first full moon’s night of the year, January 15th of lunar calendar (aka. Spring Lantern Festival), you can find the schedule on the official website for Dà-jiǎ Ma-zu Pilgrimage. 

(Update: For 2020, the journey will start on March 20 and until March 28 of solar calender. )

However, since all informations are in Chinese anyway, I will recommend you to download the official GPS App or check 👑this webpage that shows Ma-zu’s track and location of each days for better understanding.
 

▲The GPS app that shows the instant location of Mazu's palanquin, 
which is easy to understand even though still in Chinese.
 

Traditionally, followers walk along with her, but becasue the bearers carrying Mā-zǔ’s palanquin will take turns walking speedily, nowadays pathetic valetudinarians living in 21st century, like me, will mostly start up 3-6 hours earlier than her departure, otherwise it’s not as easy to catch up with her.

Usually she departs late in the night from Zhèn-lán Temple(鎮瀾宮) on the first day, so earlier in the afternoon, you may take a train to Dà-jiǎ(大甲) train station and walk to the temple in 5 minutes.  

▲ 👑webpage that shows Ma-zu’s track and location of each days

What to bring

To prepare for this long trip, you must first think about how you’re going to accomplish it:   

by hiking

Originally, everyone walks.

Yet, the most traditional way may be simply walking, with nothing.  Amazingly, you may still find several cool elders traveling just like this, every year, since decades ago.

However, I prefer to travel with sufficient material assistance, including:

Packing List

Anything to add or remove is up to you, but be sure to try put them all on your shoulder to see if you can bear the weight for long time hiking.

Moreover, many people uses wagon instead of carrying everything on their back, to make room for more needments while reducing the aches from trudging over a long distance. 

▲You can even find some wagons specially designed for the Pilgrimage with huge capacity, light weight, ergonomic handle height and 360º free and easy turning from online shops.

by bicycle or even by scooter

Lately more and more decide to catch up with Mā-zǔ by other means such as bicycle or scooter.  Some even drive a car there, with a message on their windows like “feel free to get on when you need some rest”, to offer seats for strangers in need.

If you’d like to adopt measures other than hiking, please also consider the possible limitations when parking or entering a crowded downtown area.

The Pilgrimage Flag

It is a flag with embroidery of a dragon, as a sign of Mā-zǔ’s pilgrims who will be protected by her troops.  You can buy the flag at the starting point, Zhèn-lán Temple(鎮瀾宮) with 300 TWD.  Remember to greet with Mā-zǔ back in the middle of the shrine, telling her that you’re going for the Pilgrimage, and write down your name and address on the flag.  

There are couple of things to do before you go and when you visit other temples on the way of the Pilgrimage:

1. Go inside the temple, greet with the deities (pray for your wishes).
2. Seal your flag with the big square stamp of the temple
3. Get a yellow good luck charm paper to tide above the flag.
4. Take the flag to hover above the huge incense burner by the middle door for 3 circles clockwise, and the one back in the middle of the shrine for 3 circles again.

If you are not sure what you’re doing, just watch or ask others holding the flags.

You might want to go to Zhèn-lán Temple earlier to avoid the crowds of millions.  On the last day returning to Zhèn-lán Temple, greet again with Mā-zǔ to let her know that you’re back. After that you’re welcome to take the flag home with you, but make sure do not put it in the bedroom or restroom, as a respect for her troops.

▲ The middle door of a shrine is for the deities.  So when entering a shrine, use doors on the left hand side, and leave by the doors on the right hand side.

The left is called “dragon’s side”, and the right is called “tiger’s side”.  The dragon’s job is to refresh your soul so that you can have better connections with the deities, and the tiger is to bless you from all evils so the misfortune will fall behind you when you walk out from the door.

Knowing the weather

The average temperature would be 25ºC~30ºC in the day time, and15ºC~20ºC in the night time.

Although this middle-west part has been the most sunny and least humid area in Taiwan, it is still a rainy season of spring.  

Food 

Even though this sounds kind of superficial, one of the most exiting feature is all the free foods on the way.

Everything is provided voluntarily either by local people, companies or shrines.  And it’s not only about us not to worry over supplements on the way.  

Just for the record, Taiwan is a popular spot for delicious Asian cuisine.  In fact, FOOD is the main reason that this developing island is attracting millions of visitors from Japan and Hong Kong every year.   As one of the pilgrim, you’ll be under attack of tons and tons of traditional Taiwanese cuisine, drinks and snacks, such as fried noodle, vermicelli, sticky rice, wheel pies, flaky pancake, shaved ice and bubble milk tea.

These towns on the Pilgrimage route also happen to be famous for fruits.  Watermelons, muskmelons, grapes, pineapples, guavas, wax apples, bananas, cherry tomatoes…everything offered for Mā-zǔ’s pilgrims by the locals are all of the best quality.

Well, I shouldn’t make it the main purpose for you to go for a pilgrimage, but after an 8 hour walk under the scorching sun, the hospitality does mean a lot to refresh and keep us going.

▲One feature of this island is all kinds of delicious fruits from the temperate to tropical zone.
The pilgrimage give you a chance to try them all, including this sweet juicy wax apple.

Vegetarian and Vegan-friendly

The free foods prepared would be also “Buddhism vegetarian” for the first 3 days of the Pilgrimage until zhùshòu celebration in Shīn-gǎng on the 4th day.  After that, you can find foods for both carnivore and vegetarian on the streets.

Although the dairy products are not definitely prohibited for Buddhism vegetarian, they are not really common to use in Taiwanese cuisine.  Instead, we uses a variety of soy products such as tofu, fried tofu, dried tofu, fermented tofu, bean curd sheet and soy milk.  Dishes that contains eggs would be also very obviously eggs and thus avoidable.  So if you’re vegan, Dà-jiǎ Mā-zǔ Pilgrimage is probably going to be the best journey for you in the world to get yourself fed.

▲You'll be surprised how creative a vegan menu can be in a temple.

Water

Tap-water is not drinkable in Taiwan (we’re working on it though), so you will find many booths providing bottled water.  But for those who aren’t really a fan of bottled water:  almost every temples and bigger shrines (those with five doors or more in the front) would have a water dispenser at the side or hallway.  That is why temples are also my best supply spots when cycling around Taiwan, as well as police stations and train stations.

Nevertheless, many locals prepared by their doors a huge tank of tea or “plumade" for pilgrims, which is considered to be a useful cure to prevent heat stroke.

▲The sour tea made of plum is definitely refreshing after hiking in the sun.

Toilet

Almost all the temples or bigger shrines has toilets, and so as some 7-11, family marts, gas station, police station or train station.

Companies and factories having booths built up for pilgrims to rest usually offer their toilet for use.  On the most crowded sites, you can also find many portable restrooms.

But most of public toilet provides no toilet paper.

And please note that Taiwan is only recently starting to upgrade the sewage system for flushing down tissues (yeah, we’re working on this, too), so if you see no signs written, instead of flushing tissues into the toilet, put them into the trash bin by the toilet.

The pilgrimage flag should not be brought into toilets with you.  You may ask other pilgrims to keep an eye on it for you.

Sleeping

Although you may book hostels/hotels/B&Bs along the way for each day, but what I find absolutely precious in the Pilgrimage is a chance to travel like a monk in ancient times.

1. First of all, all shrines and temples on the route open up their floors during the Pilgrimage for everyone who needs a rest.  Yes! you can simply just walk in and lie down in any spot not blocking the way.
2. Furthermore, bigger temples tend to have its own “pilgrim’s building”(香客大樓).  Some are free for staying or taking donation of voluntarism, and some may charge 100~500 TWD depending on the facilities.
3. If you are at the main temple of a village, the community center may be just nearby, and offer their indoor space as well.
4. The elementary schools close by may also open up their playing-fields for camping.
5. When you’re exhausted late in the night, you can even lie down on a paved sidewalk under buildings, but if it’s by someone’s door, better to ask for permission.

In short, you can sleep basically anywhere without booking anything in advance as long as you’re cool with it.  Actually, when I just wander around temples, many strangers come to tell me where there’s still space for resting.  Sharing of information and everything is just natural among all pilgrims regardless of status or relation.

wherever you find in the end, there’s only one thing to be worried: the mosquitos.  If you’re not traveling with a mosquito net or inner tent, it’s better to cover yourself with a sleeping bag or clothes.

According to the detail schedule published by the organizer, the resting time for Mā-zǔ’s palanquin is only 1-3 hours per day, but since you can move on earlier and arrive earlier, it’s easy to manage for a good sleep.

▲Pilgrims just lie down in the corners around the temple.

Showers 

Here are some places to look for shower rooms:

1. Portable shower rooms set up by the organizer

2. In the pilgrim’s buildings / community centers nearby big temples

3. Some B&B / hostels might offer showers for 100~200 TWD

4. Swimming pool.  Although it takes extra walks from the route, but it’s pretty relaxing and costs only 100~200 TWD (if you bring a bathing suit with you for SPA).

Take a break 

When you're exhausted, you can

1. sit down at supplement spots or, just anywhere.

2. get on a service truck run by volunteers to take anyone in need to the next temple or shrine.

Sure It’s nice to challenge but there’s no need to force yourself when you don’t feel right.

Besides, one of the advantages not booking any place to stay is that you can rest anywhere anytime you want.  No rush.

Safety

Medication

During the Pilgrimage, you can find the medical crew following the parade, as well as several first-aid booths near some temples sponsored by local hospitals.  Feel free to ask them when you need help.  They even offer to remove and bandage your blisters.

Pickpockets

Mind your personal belongings.

Traffic

The route includes highways without sidewalks, which means there would be scooters running by just 10 inches away from you.  Therefore, always watch out for your back whenever you’re stoping or turning, and especially remember to put a taillight on your backpack and make sure it’s turned on when walking in the night.

▲The pilgrimage route takes mostly tarred road, sometimes even highway.

Firecrackers

There’s a tradition to put firecrackers on the side of the road and light them up right before Mā-zǔ’s palanquin coming.  It is believed that the longer people can stopped the palanquin in front of their door, the more blessings they can earn from Mā-zǔ.  That’s why the firecrackers can be more than 10 meters long or in many fancy shooting forms.  So be aware if you’re walking right in front of Mā-zǔ’s palanquin and dodge quickly when someone’s yelling “beh pàng phàu-á” (firecrackers are lighten up).

▲ The canon style firecrackers by the roads.

Why snatching at the palanquin?

One more thing happening every year is literally “fighting” for the palanquin.

It started as a good will, when the original carriers of the palanquin arrive in one place and let the local carriers take over to go around the town for all villagers to see and worship.  Yet, as more and more villages around Zhāng-huà city craving for Mā-zǔ’s blessing, and most of the carrier teams are made up of local gangsters, it gradually turn into violent group scuffle implying a proof of power.

But good news is that it usually happens only when Mā-zǔ’s palanquin entering Zhāng-huà city, especially between Zhāng-huà railway underpass and Yǒng-lè night market, so it’s easy to avoid it by walking a couple of hours earlier away from the palanquin when passing Zhāng-huà city.

▲ It's mostly peaceful outside of Zhāng-huà city

Prostrate under the palanquin

Whenever Mā-zǔ’s palanquin arrive in a town, you’ll see people waiting on the street in a column of twos.  If you’d like to, you may join them to prostrate, letting Mā-zǔ’s palanquin going above you.  The origin of this custom is said to devote oneself as Ma-zu's foot bench in order to repay her kindness making your prayers come true, while now it is believed to bless you and keep you safe.

But make sure you DO NOT prostrate under the palanquin when you are…

• pregnant (It is said that the spirit of an embryo might be harmed by the Eight Trigrams under the palanquin, but in reality, pushing and jostling in the crowds are definitely dangerous anyway)
• wearing hat, mask or backpack (as a respect and for safety concerns)
• taking the pilgrimage flag or good luck charms with you (not bringing any deities to prostrate under another deity as a respect to those sent to protect you)
• trying to get up or touch the palanquin (unless you want to get your cervical vertebra cracked and killed on the spot)

▲Prostrating under the palanquin would be the most popular and crowded scene during the pilgrimage.

These are the genuine advices and informations and I hope they can be of some help.  Wish you good luck and have a good time exploring this amazing journey.

If you have any question or find any part confusing, leaving a comment below will be appreciated.

p.s.  Useful words

These are words that may be helpful when you try to ask people or copy & paste to search on google maps.

The scheduled stops
click on the temple's name to view on google map